The Art of Mussel Farming in “Las Rías Baixas”

In the northwest of Spain, in the autonomous community of Galicia, lies a coastal area known as the Rías Baixas. The estuaries of Corcubión, Muros and Noia, Arousa, Pontevedra, Aldán, and Vigo form a series of sea inlets that create a unique natural environment.

Their waters, rich in nutrients and phytoplankton, host various marine species. Additionally, the geographical shape of these rías protects the sea from strong waves, creating an ideal setting for the traditional cultivation of shellfish, such as oysters and mussels.

This week, I want to show you how traditional mussel farming is carried out in the Rías Baixas, a craft practised for over 70 years and which has made Galicia the second-largest mussel producer in the world, just behind China. To tell you all about it firsthand, I travelled to the town of O Grove, located in the Arousa estuary, to learn about the process in depth.

And let me say, beyond the fascinating world of mussel farming, the gastronomy of O Grove and nearby villages is outstanding. From fresh seafood to traditional Galician dishes, it’s a paradise for food lovers. After experiencing it myself, I can confirm: it’s the perfect destination for both the curious and the hungry.

The “Bateas”: The Heart of Mussel Farming

Until the creation of mussel rafts, mussels were harvested from their natural habitat: the rocks. There is evidence that as early as the 7th century BC, the Celts collected them during low tides for food. Mussels even made it to the court of the Habsburgs in the 18th century! Barrels of pickled oysters and mussels were sent so they could be enjoyed during Lent.

The "Bateas" are large floating platforms, around 500 square meters in size, anchored to the seafloor with concrete blocks. When you approach them by boat, it's quite impressive to see how they float on the water. Hanging from them are long ropes up to 12 meters on which the mussels grow.

I had the chance to join a guided boat tour to the bateas, and it was truly eye-opening. From the water, you can see the entire farming system up close, hear explanations from local experts, and even taste some freshly harvested mussels onboard. It was an experience I’ll never forget.

Each raft can hold over 400 ropes and produce more than 100 tons per year. They are not only efficient but also sustainable: no feed or chemicals are used, as the mussels feed exclusively on what the estuary provides.

These structures are a hallmark of the Galician landscape and represent a perfect symbiosis between humans and the sea.

Seed Collection: The Beginning of the Mussel

It all starts with the seed or baby mussels called “Mejilla”. These are collected in spring and summer from the rocky Galician shoreline, where young mussels naturally gather.

The collection is done by hand, respecting environmental and sustainability regulations. This task requires experience to select the right seed and transport it alive to the rafts, where its development will begin.

Wrapping on the Ropes: The Start of the Journey

Once collected, the seeds are hand-wrapped onto ropes using a biodegradable mesh that holds them in place until the mussels attach themselves, usually within 7 to 10 days.

This process marks the beginning of cultivation and is key to healthy growth. The ropes are submerged in the rafts, where the mussels will feed naturally for 4 to 7 months without any human intervention.

Thinning and Cleaning: Care for Growth

After this time, the mussels grow and need more space. Thinning involves separating and redistributing them onto new ropes to avoid overcrowding.

During their growth, the ropes are also periodically cleaned of algae, barnacles, and other organisms. These maintenance tasks ensure that the mussels grow healthy, strong, and meet the high standards of the market.

Harvesting: The Fruit of Labour

When the mussels reach market size after a total of 12 to 14 months, they are harvested using cranes installed on boats. A machine detaches them from the ropes and sorts them.

Part of the harvest is sold fresh, another portion is used for the canning industry, and a good amount is exported. Each harvested mussel represents months of work, tradition, and respect for the sea.

Final Destination: From Sea to Plate

Galician mussels arrive fresh at fish markets and restaurants all over Spain, where they are enjoyed steamed, in empanadas, rice dishes, or tapas.

They are also featured in premium canned products, especially pickled or natural, and exported to countries like France, Italy, Portugal, and Japan. With their unique flavour, mussels become small ambassadors of Galicia on tables worldwide.

Links and Tips: To Learn More (or Visit Yourself!)

• Take a guided boat tour of a mussel platform "batea"; it’s worth it! (turismo.gal )Marine tourism in Galicia (turismoriasbaixas.com)
• Look for the D.O. label to ensure quality and origin. (mexillondegalicia.org) D.O. Mussel of Galicia, (museodomar.xunta.gal), Museum of the Sea of Galicia
• Try different preparations, there’s more to life than steamed mussels. (Stuffed Mussels)
• If you visit Galicia, go between May to September to avoid crowds and enjoy the sea at its calmest.
• Don’t miss the chance to explore local restaurants in O´Grove and the surrounding villages, you’ll find unforgettable seafood and warm hospitality. (Taberna Okra)
• If you are a wine lover, Riax Baixas D.O. produces one of the most delicious white wines in Spain. You can even visit some vineyards and cellars. (Visit Mar de Frades Winery)

Mussel farming in Galicia is not just an economic activity: it is a way of life, an example of harmony between tradition and sustainability, and a symbol of the Galician maritime spirit. From the rocks where the seed is born to the plate where we savour it, the Galician mussel tells a story of patience, respect, and connection with the sea.

And now that you know the whole process… doesn’t your next mussel taste even better?

Have a Tasty day!